MARCH 12: LABYRINTHIAN FES

Daunted by the labyrinthian alley ways, we decided to take a guided tour around the city to get our bearings. The old part of the city is called the Medina, and it truly felt like we stepped back in time into the Middle Ages…

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First off was the Medersa, which is a Koranic school.

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We soon learned that 5 is an important number in Islam. You have to pray five times a day. There are five rules you should keep as a Muslim. There are five institutions that should exist within a community; a mosque, a medersa, a common well, a common bakery, and hammam. There are five materials used to build religious buildings; plaster, wood, marble, ceramic tile and calligraphy.

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Among other tourist attractions, we were taken to carpet maker, tannery and herbal pharmacist – talk about pressure to buy!

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Tannery, you want to go to the tannery, this way! This way!

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Yellow is the royal colour, but who wants to wear a yellow leather slipper? Vanilla Ice?

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Check out the skyline of satellite dishes, free hundred channel TV for the masses.

Ummm, Argan oil for anyone? you can use it for cooking or on your body as perfume, so you can ummm, smell like food? It does smell good. Watch out Chanel No.5

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We rescued Megumi from her big bad wolf, the Moroccan tour guide who practically bullied this poor solo Japanese traveller into the same restaurant we ate at, the difference being he was 6 foot and 300 pounds and she was 5 foot and 90 pounds and he was forcing her to eat! Hope you are well in your travels!

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And of course, +cruz could not resist working as he ran into both Google an PlayStation even in the labyrinthian alleys of Fes. There is no escape!

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The Moulay Idriss Mosque, one of the most revered in the country

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…beautifully intricate plaster wall reliefs, recessed in 45º angles!!!

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Scenes from the local market, which is pretty much throughout the whole medina…

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A girl on her way to the communal neighbourhood bakery to have her family’s dough turned into bread.

Some of the old fondooks are being renovated…

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Footbaths in the mosques to cleanse before prayer, unfortunately this is as far as we could go…

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One thing that stood out so much to us were these political poster walls with the pigeon party, the googly eyes party, the scale party, the red rose party, the farm truck party ;-) …

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A local salon…

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We could not escape mosaics everywhere we went…

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Fes is medieval through and through.

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And that my friends, was just day one of our Fes adventure!!!

MARCH 11 : MOROCCAN BAPTISM

We landed in Casablanca at 1 am. Can’t understand why on earth anyone would want to land at some ungodly hour, but it seems a norm in North African countries!

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Drowning ourselves in coffee at the airport in the wee hours of the morning, waiting to catch the first train out of there. Luckily the Mohammed V airport seems to run 24 hours and we had some research and catching up to do for Morocco, so it was good downtime.

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We caught the first train at 6am to Casa Voyageurs where we had to catch the Fes-bound train. We soon found out how efficient the trains run in Morocco – not very; our 7am train got cancelled for no reason, and the next one at 9am was an hour late. And this is after the 13-hour marathon flight from Argentina via 6-hour layover at Frankfurt. Man, were we thankful that we got some rest at the Frankfurt lounge.

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We were tired as bricks! Caught some zzzzzzz’s en route to Fes. Paying a few dollars more for the first class tickets was so worth it. We had the compartment to ourselves throughout.

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I hadn’t a clue how vegetated Morocco was until now, everything is green. What a nice ride through the countryside.

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We finally made it to Fes around 2pm in the rain, wheeling our backpacks into the maze that is the Medina. Dar Houdou would be our home in Fes for the next few days. Mohammed our host gave us the lowdown on Fes from the rooftop.

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Hunger soon caught up around evening time, so we traversed through a medieval wet market, complete with livestock about to be slaughtered, making our way through women veiled in berkahs and hajibs, to the Blue Gate for a quick dinner. So what’ll it be? In Morocco, there’s an abundance of choices between two main dishes… Tagine or Couscous and variations between of the two.

MARCH 10 : DANKE SHOEN LUTHANSA!!!

To our surprise, we got upgraded to Bit-nez klass by Lufthansa. It was great since this was one of the longest, if not THE LONGEST leg of our global journey! What a fluke cause I think my Gold membership expired like 10 days ago and I would not be able to reach gold status til the Bali portion of our trip!

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This was officially MJ and I’s first Biznez Klass flight together!

THERE IS A GOD!

MARCH 9 : SLOW TIME IN COLONIA…

The next day and last day saw us doing pretty much the same thing the day before… walkin round town and poppin by some local museos.

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MJ decided to do an impromptu yoga session by the cliff…

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Is the camera on? wha?

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We busted out the gorilla tripod which we bought especially for this trip, finally!

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We noticed they had really nice trash bins throughout the isla.

Perhaps the best thing we saw in the Colonia were these amazing ancient world maps drawn by The Portuguese and Spaniards. I”m a big fan nice shapes, and the artisan cartograpers certainly didn’t disappoint!

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Is Magellan here yet? How about Christophe Columbo? When are those foo’s comin’ to fetch us?

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We killed the remaining time with a leisurely late lunch and thought we’d end our visit with a nice flan con dulce de leche.

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By this time we learned the difference between “monedas” (coins) and “billetas” or in Espagnoli – “dinero”, and what “effectivo” means… the bill, not “la cuenta”. In fact all Espagnish is not de same from España to Mexico to Argentina.

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All in all, Colonia was a nice slow time. Montevideo it is next time!

MARCH 8 : GREAT EXPECTATIONS URUGUAY

We woke up the next day with great expectations from Colonia.

The day did not exactly start off right. You see, we have just been to Mexico where the breakfasts were amazing, Argentina was so-so, standard continental, and we expected a lot from a quaint B&B in Uruguay, but sadly, little miss Myung Jin was not happy. In fact she was a bit frumpy and went a bit mad.

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Wha? This is it?

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Well, at least the patio was nice ;-)

We wanted to see what the other rooms would be like, so we decided to change rooms, got a bigger one that’s more towards the front of the building, huge room, enough for three!

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The rest of the day saw us wandering about aimlessly around this sleepy town. Reminded me of Toledo or Sevilla…

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+cruz decided to start “Uruguay Lab” while he was in town ;-)

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A local jewellery designer we met. MJ fancied the leather necklace top left.

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This is one sleepy town indeed! For our own amusement, we played with the local chats.

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How the locals get around – MadMax stylee…

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The day ended with us watching the sun set at the local docks. There was nothin’ else we could think of doing, not out of romance but frankly for a lack of choice ;-)

MARCH 7 : IN SEARCH OF AMERICA SUD…

In search of something more authentically America Sud, we hopped on over to Colonia del Sacramento by way of the BuqueBus ferry, which took about una hora.

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Our refuge in Colonia was the quaint Posada del Lobo with its authentically antique rooms.

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Meson de la Plaza was our stop for dinner and it did not disappoint! The flan was delish.

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MARCH 7 : ADIOS ARGENTINA

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On our way out BsAs, we stopped by Plaza Dorrego to soak in some weekend antique shopping.

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We loved the atmosphere and ended up chillaxin over some tapas at SAGARDI. We were down for the count, 13 to be exact!

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I think it safe to say that we’ve seen and done BsAs. It’s a laid back, Euro party town – a mix of Barcelona and LA with a twist of Rio sans the architecture and indigenous diversity. The whole ethnic cleansing just did not sit too well with us. I suppose no different than what the Euros did in the good ole USA. It’s a great place to live, so relaxed. But we’ve OD’d on choice cuts of beef, then some pasta, then more cuts of beef heaven.

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After our 4th day we started itching for something more authentically America Sud. So we’re thinking of making a run for the border to Montevideo, Uruguay for some displacement, or perhaps Colonia. We hear its nice there. Hopefully we find something more real…

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It’s time to throw the towel in on this one.

MARCH 7 : RUSKIE EASY RIDER

We stumbled upon a Russian Biker whose goal it is to set a world record by riding the most miles across the earth on his bike, sure, that may not be so unique, except, he’s mute!

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The very best of luck to you! We hope you set that record soon!

Damn, some human beings are amazing!

MARCH 7 : WHERE’D YOU GO?

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Will the real Argentinians just please stand up, please stand up.

PEACE!

MARCH 6 : LAZY DAWGS

Lethargic! We kept getting lazier and lazier by the minute in BsAs.

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Life is too good! So we figured it’s time to move on.